While I was more than impressed with the state of preserved railways and tourist railway operations down under, I cannot say the same for the regular public passenger trains. The Indian Pacific is billed as a land cruise, sort of a transcontinental journey in comfortable surroundings. It does not live up to its billing in any way, shape, or form.
The average, hard working commuter train is better equipped and operated than the worn out nasty old car stock we rode out of Sydney to Adelaide which should have never been permitted to leave the coach house. The loud creaking and groaning which eminated from the floor made the term sleeper an oxymoron. Seems they haven't caught on to center plate and side bearing lubrication. Even if the car had been quiet, the constant jolting and jarring would have thrown us from our berths if we hadn't held on for dear life.
Our passenger locomotive died shortly after leaving Sydney Central, and a heavy freight unit was sent to relieve us. I would like to think that that may have been the reason for the crack the whip the train played at every start and stop, but somehow I think it had more to do with the lost motion in the buffers and draft gear.
The passenger rail systems in Australia are shortly to be privatized. One can only hope they will then be brought up to the high standard evident in the New Zealand system. Until then, I would recommend any visitors avoid the long distance passenger trains and fly between the major urban centers using much better interurban and commuter trains from there.
It would seem the less one pays for a meal in NZ or Oz, the better the food is and the friendlier the experience. Avoid any restaurant with atmosphere, and eat at the local pub. Local vintages are incredibly good and inexpensive. Seafood and pastas are excellent, most beef dishes will disappoint Yanks.
The one exception is the Tramcar Restaurant in Melbourne. Three trolleys run as diners, and the food and service is first class. Reservations must me made well in advance.
Public transportation is a bit confusing since we don't really have much left over here, but it can be used to get almost anywhere and never costs much. Passes can be purchased in the major centers for all trains, trams, and busses. Renting cars is usually an expensive unnecessity. We rented a car only in Adelaide to tour the surrounding wine country (Napa Valley eat your heart out) and after some initial trepidation found it required some constant vigilance to operate from the other side of the car on the other side of the road, but wouldn't want to try it in Sydney or Melbourne. Still, the wipers went on every time I wanted to signal a turn.
Don't plan on learning much about local culture from TV. They seem to purchase a lot of US network programming. OTOH, if you are a Kojak fan, you can spend all day in the hotel room. You will miss out on a whole lot if you do.
The railway situation insofar as preserved and tourist operation is concerned is wonderful. If a visitor is involved with a preserved or tourist line in the US, with some advance notice he will be made welcome on any of the lines I visited. The concept of professional courtesy and reciprocity is combined with the genuine friendliness of the Kiwis and Ozzies as a whole. There are no finer and warmer people in the world. Their professionalism and standards are far and above those practised in much of the US, and, for the most part, the results are obvious.
Interesting difference: no gloves. If you have the opportunity to fire an engine, be prepared to lose all the hair off your knuckles reaching in to hit the back corners. Food and drink are served superheated, so let the tea and the railway pies cool a bit. Ozzies must be part asbestos........
Generally, do purchase tickets and/or gift shop items even if you have been invited as a guest. Most of the lines are volunteer operated and need all the funding they can get. Spend more time finding out about how things are done there than telling them how things are done better over here since they aren't better over here, just some differences. You will be given such things as newsletters, postcards, etc. Bring some of your own from your railway to give to them as well. Our languages are similar enough that understanding is not difficult.
There are a lot of books on Aussie slang, etc, so I won't get into that sort of thing here other than to suggest that if you are a politically correct Yank, you may be appalled at the way good friends insult each other. Get Lost, You Bastard is generally a friendly expression as are most similar public statements of that type. If one Ozzie dislikes another, that will most likely be made evident by silence or a quiet statement on the side. Unless, of course, one commits the unforgivable sin of not buying the round in his turn at the pub. Beware, Yanks, and be sure to "shout the bar" when your turn arises as well.
On to the next stop: STEAM RANGER
Contact IronDave
HOME